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Circumvention

Circumvention
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How to get past just about any fence/wall/barrier system
 

Non-Lethal Fences - non-alarmed

  • Chain Link - Bolt Cutters purchased at any hardware store.
     
  • Medium Wire Mesh - Liquid Nitrogen, if you have a friend in the medical industry, this can be purchased at a fairly low price. The canister comes complete with a spray nozzle. This spray is used to remove warts and moles in a doctor’s office. If you will be using the spray for an extended period of time, wear warm gloves and don’t lick the can or kiss it. Each link that is sprayed will break off very easily just through light tapping or pushing and bending at the same time or you can carry a small 6 ounce hammer or needle-nosed (angle) pliers. This will work as an example with fences made or installed by Viking Fencing, Gibraltar, Sentinel, Foundation Fence, Texas Commercial Fence, etc.
     
  • Tight Wire Mesh - Liquid Nitrogen as above. This will work as an example with fences made or installed by Viking Fencing, Gibraltar, Sentinel, Foundation Fence, Texas Commercial Fence, etc.
     
  • Interior Attic/Roof Grid - PVC pipe, cut a V shaped grove in the center of each end. These thick-walled 1” ID pipes should be about 33” long. You will require 4 of them. For added safety, cut four thick walled 1” ID 32” long pipes and use a table saw to cut through one side only. Wearing heavy rubber gloves, slip these four pipes over the hot lines - carefully. You now have roughly a 5 foot square hole to go through.
     

Lethal Fences - non-alarmed

  • Supported Isolated Concertina - This can be spread apart using bolt cutters. You just have to remember to slightly loosen the bottom and top intersecting wire supports. Then slide the entire assembly to the left and right to open a hole. Use thick walled 1” ID PVC pipe with grooves cut in the end to support the wire. Length of pipe depends on how much space you need to safely crawl under. Push everything you are carrying through ahead of you because you will need to concentrate. Use a think walled 1” ID PVC pipe again to shield the hot wire, just in case. In all cases, examine the isolators to insure they are loop loaded, rather than spring loaded. If they are spring loaded, the “hot” wire can slip off the insulator and touch the fence, thereby electrifying the entire fence.
     
  • Self Supporting Isolated Concertina -  Be very careful with this form on concertina fence. You will have to follow the rules of building a supported fence, so you can cut the concertina and spread it apart. If you do not, the loops will fall into the hot wire and you had better run like hell because the entire fence will go live and most probably you’ll hear sirens in short order because even cheap fences generally have ground fault alarms.
     
  • Isolated Wall -  The only thing you can do with an isolated wall is reroute the hot wires, bring very think rubber gloves, don’t sweat and bring lots of well insulated wire. HT voltage wire like that used for spark plugs works well up to about 20kv.
     
  • Interior Attic/Roof Grid - PVC pipe, cut a V shaped grove in the center of each end. These thick-walled 1” ID pipes should be about 33” long. You will require 4 of them. For added safety, cut four thick walled 1” ID 32” long pipes and use a table saw to cut through one side only. Slip these four pipes over the hot lines - carefully. You know have roughly a 5 to  square foot hole to go through.
     

Detection Systems

  • In-Situ Non-Lethal Fencing - Assume the same process for Self Supporting Isolated Concertina or an Isolated Wall.
     
  • In-Situ Lethal Fencing - Assume the same process for Self Supporting Isolated Concertina or an Isolated Wall.
     
  • Security Systems Communication - If this comms system is non-encrypted, get yourself a laptop, a frequency scanner and a wide band transmitter/receiver. You can locate the transmit and receive frequencies and monitor the communications patterns. After you have gone through a couple of false alarms (make sure you have a jeep or something to get you out of there fast) and have seen the communications progression and protocols, you should be ready to turn off the security system. Most systems send out a single armed code that turns a system on and another to turn it off. This turn on signal may occur once or once a day. Once you have resolved the codes, by simply scanning the communications, you should be able to simply turn off the security. If the systems is encrypted, you might want to just use an RPG.
     
  • Time Domain Reflectometry - All one needs to know is the pulse frequency so a proper LRC circuit can be made and attached ahead of the point to be breached so the wires can be cut. Once the “new” absorber is in place, there will be no reflections to measure and hence no alarm.
     
  • Acoustic Cable - Extremely difficult to get past. All activity creates vibration through physical shock and cutting the Acoustic Cable just gives that much higher a resolution to the alarm point. One might be able to dig a tunnel 40’ under the sensors if you did it with a spoon using very shallow strokes. There is no way to isolate an acoustic cable or sensor without triggering an alarm, so all that is left is an attempt at active acoustic jamming, to create so many false alarms the operators believe the system is unreliable and hence ignore incoming events or turn it off. One last method is to cut the cable simultaneously at two points extremely far apart. The center or removed section is completely open to intrusion. Proper circumvention requires someone on the inside turning off the sensing system, but if there is no buried cable or acoustic pods, then the above method will work fairly well.
     
  • Capacitive Signature - Like Acoustic Cable, extremely difficult to get past. There is no way to approach the barrier without triggering an alarm so you have to set up a decoy, usually other people who are a lot farther away that can draw the reaction team away from you and toward them. Proper circumvention requires someone on the inside turning off the sensing system, however, there is a possible method. Using very fine wire and stakes, ground the stakes and cover them over but make sure the fine wire is attached first. Weave the wire through the fence loops vertically in two parallel lines to create a “dead spot” that appears to the signature analysis like a fence post, do this at night. Capacitive systems are usually sensing loose or tight mesh type chain link, although they can be in a pair of wires. Once you have the wires in place, get out of there, all the touching will have triggered alarms. You want the wires to be fine enough so as not to be seen and the system to “believe” that the two wires are a normal occurrence and that the signature they produce is a natural consequence of the system. Come back a few days later and attach a ground wire to your wrists and a stake placed 40 feet from the fence. Move exactly perpendicular to the fence between the tracks of the two wires you placed vertically. Cut the fence using liquid nitrogen to open a hole and pass through. Make sure the ground wire you have attached to yourself is at least 80 feet long and do not remove it until you are at least 40 feet past the fence.
     
  • Laser Scanning - Almost impossible to circumvent unless you can stay “ahead” of the transmitter/recever to put yourself in a blind spot (but then you’ll be picked up by Acoustic or Capacitive systems when you approach the barrier if they are in place). We once tried training a laser on the laser sensor, the alarm went off of course. We tried slowly increasing the power of our laser until screen went blank, that worked so we fixed it. Blank screen or 60% deviation from reference bit plane generated an alarm. Others will be thinking the same way.
     
  • Ultrasonic Scanning - Almost impossible to circumvent unless you can consistently jam the ultrasonic sensor in a 360 degree horizontal range (which of course means you are already past the barrier).
     
  • Thermal Imaging Cameras - For all their cost (and they are pricey) they are not that hard to defeat with the correct suit. A cooling suit is required that keeps the suits skin temperature at exactly ambient temperature +/- 0.5 or less degrees F. The cooling system radiator/controller mounts on the back (away from the camera). The suit is lined with mylar and magnesium-aluminum foil with a cooling circulation membrane. TC camera software generally looks at two different types of alarms; 1.) a thermal signature different than ambient and 2.) a rapid change in ambient conditions or within ambient conditions in a specific area.

If you want to know more about thee types of systems and how they operate or you have a specific security problem, contact me at dave @ meckanic.com

We don’t advocate trying to get past a security barrier, simply because it’s there for a reason and chances are you’ll be breaking some law, minor or major. The worst case is you could get killed, so don’t try this. This document is in place for informational purposes only to advise on which types of fence and detection system can be breached and the level of security.

 

 
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